Tomas Franchini

Tomas Franchini

IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide

Tomas hails from northern Italy, where he spent his early life as a ski racer before discovering his true calling in mountaineering. With a passion for nature and adventure, Tomas loves establishing new routes around the world and has a special affinity with solo climbing. 

  • Bio

    Tomas ZumsteinTomas began his career as an alpinist after several years of competitive alpine ski racing. He discovered that the ‘real mountains’ were what he was seeking and where he felt at home so he began to explore them by every means and in every season: rock climbing, ice climbing, freeriding, big wall climbing and international expeditions outside of Europe.  Fortunately for Tomas, the Dolomites region he grew up in offered a variety of terrain for a multitude of alpine activities. In fact, the first mountains that Tomas climbed were the ones at his front door, Gruppo Brenta and Presanella. Tomas then moved further afield to Trentino, the Alps and beyond. 

    Tomas initially climbed existing routes but once he had tasted the feeling of establishing a new route, he couldn’t stop seeking untouched climbing routes on walls and mountains around the world. These remote places offer Tomas the chance to experience the thing he cherishes most: adventure. He does not necessarily seek out difficult routes but rather ones that allow him to explore. Tomas often chooses solo climbing, where contact with nature is strong. For Tomas, his wider approach to climbing is also important. He has a great respect for nature and the landscape, so on first ascents he always tries to leave the wall as ‘clean’ as possible, with no trace of his visit - ‘Alpine Style’.

    Since his first expedition outside Europe to Patagonia in 2012, Tomas has tried to organize an international expedition every year to a place where he can be rewarded by alpine challenges, adventure and culture. The videos, photos and material produced during his expeditions are often presented at shows in Italy and internationally.

    Although Tomas is primarily based in Madonna di Campiglio in northern Italy, he guides throughout the European Alps.

  • Notable Ascents


    • Via Attraverso il Pesce Marmolada IXMouline
    • Rouge Roda de Vael IXIl
    • Canto del Cigno Vallacia/Val di Fassa IX- (Flash)
    • Mururoa Vallacia/Val di Fassa 7b+
    • Fragilità Celebrale Sergent/Valle dell’Orco 7b+ (one pitch trad)
    • Cannabis Sergeant/Valle dell’Orco 7b+

    Rock Ascents

    • La Tigre il Daino e il Gladiatore Limarò/Sarche 8a+ 1° ripetition
    • Die Fram Marmolada 7c
    • Specchio di Sara Marmolada 7c
    • Hammada Colodri 7c+/8a
    • La Rosa dei venti Dain/Sarche 7c+/8a
    • Via Maestri Cima della Farfalla/Brenta 7c
    • Il Volo della Libellula Torre delle Pociace/Val di Fassa 7b 1° (freeclimbing onsight)
    • Tradimento Valle dell'Orco 7b (onsight)
    • Divieto di Sosta + Self Control Precipizio degli Asteroidi/Val di Mello VIII
    • Direttissima Cima alle Coste/Arco VII/A1
    • Mangas Coloradas Caporal Valle dell’Orco 7a+/A2+

    Ice and mixed ascents

    • The Shroud (Lenceul) Grand Jorasses (solo)
    • Senza Chiedere il Prmesso Adamello M7 solo
    • Couloir Direct Dru/Monte Bianco
    • Colton McIntyre Gran Jorasses
    • Supercouloir Mont Blanc du Tacul 5+ M6
    • Pilone Centrale del Freney Monte Bianco
    • The Ginat Le Droites 5
    • Lisa Dagli Occhi Blu Crozzon di Brenta WI 6 M5+ 1°ripetition
    • Sotto Gli Occhi della Luna Val Brenta M8 6-
    • The day of Master Val Daone 5+
    • Ravanel Frendo Auiguille Charrel/Chamonix 5
    • Le Temps est Assasin Triangle du Tacul/Chamonix M8
    • Alice in Wonderland Presanella Parete est M6 1°ripetition

    Ascents outside of Europe

    • Franco Argentina Cerro Fitz Roy/Patagonia
    • Cara Oeste Cerro Torre/Patagonia 1° ascent 2014
    • Los Checos Bandidos Esfinge de Paron/Cordillera Balnca/Perù 1°ripetition
    • Guillot-Conqueugniot Aguja Guillaumet/Patagonia
    • Whilliam Cochrane Aguja Poincenot/Patagonia
    • Exocet Cerro Standhardt/Patagonia 1°ascent 2013
    • Cara este Aguja dell'S/Patagonia
    • Kearny-Harrington Aguja St.Exupery/Patagonia
    • Todo o Nada El Mocho/Patagonia
    • Anglo-Americana Aguja Innominata/Patagonia
    • Nevado Huascaran Sur 6738m Cordillera Blanca/Perù



    • Via degli Angeli Punte di Campiglio 7c
    • Vagabondeo Montano Punte di Campiglio VII solo
    • Tempi Cupi Val Genova 300m 7a
    • Consapevolmente Disadattato Val Nambrone 6b
    • Davide Pinamonti Cima Margherita Gruppo di Brenta VII
    • Via delle Regole Crozzon di Brenta VIII
    • Icaro Punta Anna Cima Dodici Val di Fassa 7a+ RX
    • Franchini-Rosi Catinaccio d’Antermoia VII+

    Ice & Mixed

    • Fratelli e Cortelli Pietra Grande WI 6 M5+ A1 RX
    • Linea del Tempo Presanella 200m VII M5+ A0
    • Sogni e Incubi Cima Busazza M6+
    • La via che non c’è Cima Brenta 5+ M5
    • Selvaggia Sorte Cima Tosa WI5+ M5+ for ¾ solo
    • Passaggio Solista Cima d’Ambiez VI M5+ WI5 solo
    • Camera con Vista Pietra Grande WI5 M5
    • Antonio Val Nambrone 150m WI4+
    • Piera Val Nambrone 150m WI 4+
    • Silvestro Val Nambrone 110m WI 4
    • Tomas Val Nambrone 80m WI 4+
    • L'Elfo del Brenta Pilastro Antonio e Piera/Cima Tosa/Brenta 550m WI5 V M4+ solo
    • Ritorno Solitario Torri di Kiene/Gruppo di Brenta 350m WI3 M4+ 80° solo
    • Libido Crozzi della Taviela/Val di Pejo 150 m 6c
    • Stato Brado Cercen WI5 M5 55°
    • PaTo Pietra Grande/Brenta 350m WI 4 M6 V+
    • Capitan Inverno Val Gabbiolo 500m M5+WI4 solo

    Outside of Europe

    • Attempt until 2/3 of the walll/West face on Torre Egger/ Patagonia 2013
    • Ruleta Trentina Cerro Rincon/Patagonia winner of “Premio Paolo Consiglio CAI 2013”
    • Compagno vento amica luna Pilastro Rampagaroi, Domo Blanco, Patagonia
    • La Divina Providencia Nevado Churup, Cordillera Blanca, Perù
    • La Via dei Trentini Kishtwar Shivling East Pillar, Himalaya, India, winner of “Premio Paolo Consiglio CAI 2017”
    • La Ruta del Chinchillone Cerro Colorado, Patagonia
    • “El Mariano” Cerro Penitente, Patagonia 
  • Awards

    • “Premio Paolo Consiglio CAI 2013”
    • Convocations “Grignetta d'Oro 2015”
    • “Chiodo d'Oro 2016”
    • “Premio Paolo Consiglio CAI 2017”

    Tomas business card