The need for exceptional physical fitness cannot be over-emphasised. A regular, strenuous programme must be followed for many months to achieve the level of fitness required. We suggest a programme tailored to mountaineering such as those from Uphill Athlete.
Alpamayo is often hailed as the world's most beautiful mountain, with its iconic fluted snow slopes descending like fingers from its summit. Make the most of your acclimatisation by completing three ascents in one expedition, including Quitaraju, another sustained technical challenge for committed alpinists, and the optional add-on, Artesonraju, renowned for its resemblance to the Paramount Pictures logo.
Depending on conditions, our ascent of Alpamayo follows either the Ferarri Route or Italian Route, both demanding moderately steep snow and ice climbing up to 70 degrees, necessitating prior experience with such terrain.
We acclimatise on an ascent of 5,686m/18,655ft Vallunaraju before moving to Alpamayo for the ultimate ascent. A technical climbing day takes us to a high camp from where we embark on the steep ice-face to the summit. Apart from high mountain camp moves, the load-carrying is provided by porters and donkeys. This is a great high-altitude technical adventure!
Follow Alpamayo with a climb of the North Face of Quitaraju, a notably longer route than Alpamayo, but not as steep, providing an enjoyable, sustained ice and snow climb through to the summit. Two technical peaks in one expedition!
Make it three with an ascent of Artesonraju, a much recommended six day add-on that commences while you are still well acclimatised from climbing Alpamayo. Artesonraju is possibly the perfect depiction of a mountain, with fine aesthetic lines that make the mountain look startlingly similar to the Paramount Pictures logo. The climbing route is similar in technical difficulty to Alpamayo and Quitaraju, and enables you to continue to enjoy the splendour of the Peruvian Andes with the additional climbing highlight that this climb delivers.
- Climb one of the world’s most beautiful mountain faces
- Moderate-altitude mountaineering on technical ground
- Follow Alpamayo with an ascent of Quitaraju (6,036m/19,803ft), a second sustained technical climb!
- Optional add-on climb of Artesonraju (6,025m/19,767ft), making three peaks in one expedition!
Climbing Ability
Climbing Ability
Advanced
Elevation
Elevation
5,917m/19,412ft
Duration
Duration
19 days
Location
Location
Peru
ALPAMAYO ITINERARY
DAY 1
Arrive in Lima, transfers to hotel
DAY 2
Tourist bus first class seat Lima to Huaraz
DAY 3
Acclimatisation day in Huaraz, rock climbing at Los Olivos crags
DAY 4
Day hike to Macashca Hills
DAY 5
Day hike from Pitec to Laguna Churup |
DAY 6
Vallunaraju to Morena Camp
DAY 7
Vallunaraju climbing instruction, camp at Morena Camp
DAY 8
Vallunaraju summit climb, return to Huaraz
DAY 9
Rest day
DAY 10
Drive Huaraz to Cashapampa, trek to Llama Corral, camp
DAY 11
Trek to Alpamayo Base Camp
DAY 12
Climb to Moraine Camp
DAY 13
Climb to High Camp
DAY 14
Summit day, return to High Camp
DAY 15
Climb Quitaraju or Contingency day/Rest day
DAY 16
Return to Base Camp
DAY 17
Base Camp to Cashapampa, drive to Huaraz (or move to Artesonraju Base Camp if continuing on the Artesonraju Extension)
DAY 18
Transfer back to Lima
DAY 19
Transfer to airport/flights home for those that didn't depart on prior evening
Departures and Pricing
Note: Dates are subject to change due to many factors out of our control
Looking for a specific date? Book a private expedition
PREPARE
Fitness
Technical Experience
Climbers should have experience with multi-pitch climbing (rock or ice), and be comfortable following Grade 4 ice climbs.
Altitude Experience
Climbers should have experience climbing above 4,000m/15,000ft.
Why Adventure Consultants
Adventure Consultants is renowned for the quality of its service and strategy applied to high altitude expedition climbing. Our reputation is attributed to meticulous planning and experienced logistics coordination. We have a philosophy of investing in every expedition to offer our climbers the best possible chance of success.
We employ strong and specialised Expedition leaders and support staff, who are some of the most pre-eminent in the industry. We pride ourselves on operating with small teams, the best back-up and support available. This includes nutritious and ample quantities of food, comfortable base camp facilities, reliable communications systems and the necessary medical back up.
Many of our expedition members come to us because they have seen us in action on a previous trip and decide to opt for our level of service and proven experience. Others return because they know we do our very best to make expeditions safe and successful.
Inclusions
The price of your trip includes the following:
- Qualified and experienced guides
- High-end lodging and camps
- Excellent food and catering
- Expert logistics
- Porter support
- Regular dispatches for families and friends to follow your expedition
- Comprehensive support from our New Zealand office team.
DISPATCHES
Aconcagua #1 2024/25
November 29 2024
Join us for the first of our 2024/25 southern summer expeditions to climb South America's highest peak, Aconcagua (6,962m/22,840ft). Read More
Three Peaks Nepal 2024
November 02 2024
Follow dispatches, news and updates from Adventure Consultants' Three Peaks Nepal Expedition 2024, as the team climbs Lobuche East, Pokalde & Island Peak. Read More
Island Peak & Khumbu Trek #2 2024
October 14 2024
Follow our Island Peak and Khumbu Trek #2 teams as they journey through the spectacular Khumbu Valley to Everest Base Camp and Island Peak... Read More