To make the most of your climbing experience we encourage you to work on your fitness before the trip. You will find that training on hills with a +20kg pack is the best preparation for the mountains, to build your endurance. We recommend training programmes tailored to mountaineering such as those from Uphill Athlete.
Alpinism 2 provides a thorough introduction to alpine rock climbing at a moderate standard.
If you have a good grounding in glacier travel and crevasse rescue, take this course to raise your skills to the intermediate level while climbing a series of spectacular North Cascades alpine summits such as South Early Winter Spire, Liberty Bell, Eldorado Peak and Mt. Shuksan.
This program is designed for climbers who have participated in an introductory level mountaineering course or who have a similar level of skill and climbing experience, the course includes three days on alpine rock and three on glacier routes.
This course is operated in North America as part of the Adventure Consultants / American Alpine Institute alliance.
- Cover alpine rock and snow and ice skills
- Learn to move confidently in the mountains
- Climb while you learn!
Climbing Ability
Climbing Ability
Intermediate
Elevation
Elevation
2,780m/9,121ft
Duration
Duration
6 days
Location
Location
Washington, USA
ALPINISM 2
ITINERARY
DAY 1
After a brief meeting and introductions at the American Alpine Institute offices in Bellingham, WA, your instructor(s) will take the first part of the morning to check over your equipment, finalise any rentals and purchases you may need for your programme, and get packed up for the day. From the institute's office, we drive to the small town of Mazama (3hrs), which is on the east side of the Cascade Crest, about 20 minutes past Washington Pass. We then spend the day practising rock climbing skills at a cragging area called Fun Rock. Depending on the group's skill level and goals, we will practice belaying, rappelling, anchor building, placing protection, climbing techniques, and will talk about multi-pitch transitions in preparation for the next day's alpine rock climb. We will camp at one of the Forest Service campgrounds between Mazama and Washington Pass. |
DAY 2
We drive 20 minutes back up to Washington Pass and climb the South Arête of South Early Winter Spire. Often photographed, the Early Winter Spires (North and South) and Liberty Bell stand out among the granite towers, which cluster south of Washington pass. Although less well known than routes on it famous neighbour to the north, this arête offers a satisfying ascent for less experienced climbers. Our approach takes us through a beautiful larch forest to the southernmost and highest rampart of the Liberty Bell massif. After a challenging 5.5 move early in the ascent, we enjoy stimulating, but moderate class 5 climbing with firm holds and increasing exposure on the way to the summit, where – from 2,379m/7,807ft – we can trace the course of the Early Winters Creek some 610m/2,000ft below and admire walls of Cascade peaks rising from the valley.
We will camp at the same campground as the night before.
DAY 3
We’ll venture back up to Washington Pass, but this time to climb the Becky Route on Liberty Bell, a true classic. Long famous among the Northwest rock enthusiasts, the 2,353m/7,720ft granite spire called Liberty Bell puts a variety of routes at our disposal. This route up the Southwest Face is a more sustained climb than the ascent on South Early Winter, but rock climbers who have had some experience (or who have just done the South Arête) will find it very rewarding. The slabs, cracks, and chimney on the route warrant a variety of techniques with moves up to 5, 6 and every pitch is different. The summit affords broad views of this very photogenic alpine region. We will camp at the same campground as the night before. |
DAY 4
We wake, pack and drive to one of three areas for the glacier portion of this course. Though we typically climb Mt. Shuksan for this portion, we will occasionally climb Eldorado Peak or Sahale Peak.
After driving to the trailhead for one of these three mountains, we will hike in and set up our Base Camp. If there is time, we will start our review of glacier travel procedures. Your instructor will discuss glaciation, navigation and geology over dinner.
DAY 5
Our full glacier skills review and training day. We will review cramponing and ice axe technique, and then will move onto the more advanced skills of snow and ice screw anchor building and running protection, and will practice team crevasse rescue. We will also discuss the next day’s route to the summit and will go to bed early in anticipation of an early rise the next morning.
DAY 6
| Summit day! We will climb either Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier, Eldorado Peak via the Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge, or Sahale via the Quien Sabe Glacier. We will plan on summiting early, then will return to camp, pack up, hike back to the van at the trailhead, and then drive back to AAI’s headquarters in Bellingham. We aim for getting climbers back to town between 3-7pm. |
Departures and Pricing
Note: Dates are subject to change due to many factors out of our control
| Start/End | Departing from | Quantity | Pricing | Notes | Book |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| May - Sept 2025 | North Cascades, Washington | 1:5 guide to climber ratio | $1,995 USD $ |
Looking for a specific date? Book a private course
PREPARE
Fitness
Technical Experience
Previous overnight backpacking experience including the ability to cook for yourself on a camping stove. Familiarity with the basics of rockclimbing, including knots and hitches, belaying, rappelling and basic climbing movement. Previous snow and ice experience including self-arresting, crevasse rescue and glacier travel.
Why AC/AAI?
In 2006, Adventure Consultants in Wanaka, New Zealand, and the American Alpine Institute in Bellingham, Washington, USA, formed a global alliance. Owners Dunham Gooding (AAI) and Guy Cotter (AC) aimed to strengthen both organizations by collaborating over three decades. This alliance enhances the comprehensive range of instructional programs, guided ascents, and expeditions offered worldwide. Climbers benefit from a wide array of opportunities on every continent, with the assurance of dealing with a trusted organization, regardless of where and when they choose to climb. Whether you contact AC or AAI, both organizations work closely to provide seamless support, ensuring a smooth experience from your first inquiry to the successful achievement of your climbing goals. Join our three-way alliance: AAI, AC, and you, and let's head to the mountains!
Inclusions
The price of your trip includes the following:
- Group technical climbing equipment
- Transportation to the climbing areas from our partner American Alpine Institute's headquarters
- All permits and camping fees
- The guide fee
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