Dean Staples

IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide
IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide Dean Staples climbing to Camp 1 on Mount Dhaulagiri, Nepal

Based in Lake Hawea, New Zealand, senior guide Dean Staples leads both international expeditions and New Zealand trips. A multi-talented IFMGA guide with over two decades of guiding experience, Dean is a super friendly guy, with great patience and leadership skills.

Dean is one of our most experienced guides, with a considerable number of high altitude achievements under his belt. He currently has 9 summits of Everest on his CV and was Lead Guide on our 2013 Everest Expedition, when he achieved a double summit of Everest and then Lhotse in just over 24 hours.

In his spare time Dean can be found riding his motorbike, trying to master his kite surfing, or simply relaxing at home by the lake.

Notable Ascents
  • Summitted both Everest and Lhotse in just over 24 hours, 2013
  • Summitted Everest 9 times, including twice in one season in 2007
  • First New Zealander to summit from both North and South sides
  • Big Wall Rock Climbing in Yosemite and Zion, USA.
International Expeditions

Seven Summits

Everest (8,850m/29,035ft)

  • Summits 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 (2x), 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013
  • Lead Guide 2013, 2014
  • Guide 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2012

Kilimanjaro (5,895m/19,340ft)

  • Lead Guide 2011

Elbrus (5,642m/18,510ft)

  • Lead Guide 2013

Carstenz Pyramid (4,884m/16,023ft)

  • Lead Guide 2008

Mount Vinson (4,892m/16,050ft)

  • Lead Guide 2006, 2009, 2011, 2015

Aconcagua (6,962m/22,841ft)

  • Lead Guide 2012

8,000m Peaks

  • Lhotse (8,516m/27,939ft) - Lead Guide 2013
  • Cho Oyu (8,188m/29,863ft) - 3 Summits
  • Shishapangma (8,013m/26,289ft) - 1 Summit
  • Dhaulagiri (8,167m/26,794ft) - Guide, 2017
  • Manaslu (8,163m/26,781ft) - Lead Guide, 2017
  • Broad Peak ‎(8,051 m/26,414ft) - Summit 2019

Himalayan Climbs

  • Ama Dablam (6,828m/22,401ft) - Lead Guide 2001, 2010, 2014, 2015
  • Mt Khuiten, Mongolia (4,375m/14,354ft) - Guide 2010
  • Mera Peak (6,476m/21,246ft) - Lead Guide 2016


  • Alpamayo (5,917m/19,412ft) - Lead Guide 2008
  • Antarctic Peninsula, Yacht Trip - Lead Guide 2010
  • Gulmarg Ski Touring - Lead Guide 2013
  • South Pole Last Degree - Lead Guide 2015
  • Fully Qualified IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide
  • New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA) Assessor
Film & Safety Work

Everest the Promise, Australian Everest Documentary

  • Filmed all mountain footage, 2010

The Wildest Dream: Conquest of Everest

  • Shot Everest Summit Footage 2007, 2009

Beyond the Limit, Discovery Channel

  • Shot Everest Summit Footage 2007, 2009

IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide Dean Staples on the summit of Aoraki Mount Cook.

"Dean was excellent. Found the balance between detailed explanation with relevant information and respecting where the group was at. Skilled climber, and skilled leader. A perfect combination."

Dale West, Australia
IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide Dean Staples on the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa.

"Dean was brilliant…I cannot rate Dean highly enough. His confidence, professionalism, skill, organisation meant that I had total trust in him and the decisions he made – made for a great learning environment."

Jo Stilwell, New Zealand
IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guides Dean Staples and Lydia Bradey on the summit of Dhaulagiri, Nepal.

"Dean was the perfect guide for us - his professionalism, patience, organisation and humour were all outstanding."

David Norton, New Zealand