Viktor Varoshkin

Viktor Varoshkin

IFMGA Mountain Guide

AC guide Viktor Varoshkin is as at home in the mountains as he is anywhere else. He has opened up some of the hardest trad routes in his native Bulgaria and has pushed new lines in Patagonia. Viktor is not only a fully qualified IFMGA guide, but also a helicopter rescue specialist and trained paramedic. 

  • Bio

    Victor Varoshkin 001 2After eschewing a potential career in journalism, Viktor realized early on that his life would be better spent in the mountains and quickly refocused his goals to concentrate on guiding. As a result, he has spent much of the past few years leading courses and ascents in his native Bulgaria, including sport climbing, trad climbing, ice climbing and winter mountaineering.

    In addition to his guiding activities, Viktor is also a helicopter rescue specialist, having completed his aerial training in the High Tatra Mountains and participated in many technical winch operations in mountainous terrain. Not content to stop there, Viktor has also passed his 4th grade paramedic training.

    Now a fully qualified IFMGA guide, Viktor has opened some of the hardest trad and multi-pitch climbs in Bulgaria, with grades up to 8a and A3. Overseas and outside of guiding, he is principally motivated by fast and free ascents.

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  • Notable Achievements

    Sport Climbing 7c on sight, 8a second go, 8b redpoint
    Trad Climbing 7b+
    Sport-trad Climbing Climbed 10 sport-trad lines between 160-220m (total of around 2,000m) graded between 6a and 7b in 12 hours
    Ice Climbing WI5+/6, WI4 free solo
    Aid Climbing A3
    The Alps The Central Pillar of Freney 7a+/A0, free-climbed in 24 hours
      Onsight of The Directissima on Pillier Rouge (7a+/M4), starting from Val Veny and climbing 3,800m to Mont Blanc before descending to Vallot in a single 24-hour push
      Peuterey Integrale Ridge (5c, 4,500m+) in 40 hours
      Hasse-Brandler (650m, 7a+) on Cima Grande
      Onsight of La Beauté du Monde (7a+, 750m) on Petites Jorasses
      Onsight of the Bonatti Route (550m, 7a+) on Grand Capucin
      Onsight of Le Voyage Selon Guliver on Grand Capucin
      Onsight of Banana Republic on Aguille de République (750m, 6c+)
      Vinatzer-Messner Variation (6b+, 1,200m) on Marmolada
      Bonatti Route on Piz Badille
      ….and others
  • International Expeditions

    The Caucasus Many peaks, mostly for ski touring and freeriding
    Cordillera Blanca June 2018 - Guided peaks between 5000-5500m (Ishinka, Urus, etc.) with the ultimate aim of Alpamayo but another team's accident forced the abandonment of the ascent to participate in the subsequent operation
    Patagonia Cerro Torre W Face (10 hours)
      A new line (The Approach Team line) on El Mocho S Face (550m, 6c+/A2+)
      Aguja Medialuna via Sur Azul (6c+)
  • Viktor's Testimonials

    "What an amazing guide and guy! He is hands down the best guide I have had the privilege to work with. From the moment I met him, he really impressed me with his knowledge of the area, his vast experience and his excellent teaching skills. He is very patient, doesn’t get irritated when he has to repeat himself and so humble despite being a top-notch climber. He gave 200% to this trip and pushed me to push myself without ever compromising my safety. I must say that I learnt more from him in a week than I have in the past year of climbing. The skills I gained in Chamonix are going to be really valuable in my future climbs. Kudos to the AC team for hiring such an accomplished guide who not only knows his craft but also loves to teach to newcomers like myself. I would love to climb with him as my guide and learn more in the future."
    Zenab Mansoor, USA, CEC 2019