Alpamayo is often referred to as the most beautiful mountain in the world with its classic fluted snow slopes descending like fingers from the summit.
Make the most of your acclimatisation by completing three ascents in the one expedition with climbs of Quitaraju, another sustained technical challenge for committed alpinists and optional add-on, Artesonraju, a beautiful pyramidal peak made famous in the Paramount Pictures logo.
We either ascend Alpamayo’s Ferarri Route or Italian Route, depending on conditions. The ascent involves moderately steep snow and ice climbing to 70 degrees so expedition members will require a background on this type of terrain prior to joining the trip.
We acclimatise on an ascent of 5,686m/18,655ft Vallunaraju before moving to Alpamayo for the ultimate ascent. A technical climbing day takes us to a high camp from where we embark on the steep ice-face to the summit. Apart from high mountain camp moves, the load-carrying is provided by porters and donkeys. This is a great high-altitude technical adventure!
Follow Alpamayo with a climb of the North Face of Quitaraju, a notably longer route than Alpamayo, but not as steep, providing an enjoyable, sustained ice and snow climb through to the summit. Two technical peaks in one expedition!
Make it three with an ascent of Artesonraju, a much recommended six day add-on that commences while you are still well acclimatised from climbing Alpamayo. Artesonraju is possibly the perfect depiction of a mountain, with fine aesthetic lines that make the mountain look startlingly similar to the Paramount Pictures logo. The climbing route is similar in technical difficulty to Alpamayo and Quitaraju, and enables you to continue to enjoy the splendour of the Peruvian Andes with the additional climbing highlight that this climb delivers.
Dates & Details 2024
July 20–25, 2024
Duration: 6 days
Ratio: 1:2
Pricing Schedule 2024
Prices (per person) ex Alpamayo Base Camp to Lima, Peru, add:
1 person US$8,500
2 people US$4,950
3 people US$3,900
4 people US$3,200
Adventure Consultants is renowned for the quality of its service and strategy applied to high altitude expedition climbing.
Our reputation is attributed to meticulous planning and experienced logistics coordination.
We have a philosophy of investing in every expedition to offer our climbers the best possible chance of success.
We employ strong and specialised Expedition leaders and support staff, who are some of the most pre-eminent in the industry. We pride ourselves on operating with small teams, the best back-up and support available. This includes nutritious and ample quantities of food, comfortable base camp facilities, reliable communications systems and the necessary medical back up.
Many of our expedition members come to us because they have seen us in action on a previous trip and decide to opt for our level of service and proven experience. Others return because they know we do our very best to make expeditions safe and successful.
Inclusions
The price of your trip includes the following:
Exclusions
The price of your trip does not include:
Account Information
All payments should be made by bank transfer to the following bank and account:
Bank of New Zealand
Offshore Branch
42 Willis Street
Spark Central
Wellington
New Zealand
For the account of: Adventure Consultants Limited
Account # 1000-594771-0000
Account Type: US Dollars
Swift Address: BKNZNZ22
Note: All bank transfer charges are for the remitter's account.
We can accept your deposit and balance payments via credit card (Visa, Mastercard, Amex) plus a 3% credit card transaction fee.
Deposit
A non-refundable deposit of US$1,000 is payable to secure a place on the Alpamayo expedition. A further US$500 deposit is payable for the Artesonraju extension.
Balance
The balance is payable 90 days prior to the expedition start date.
Cancellation & Refund Policy
Once you have paid your deposit your trip is confirmed, subject to payment of the balance of fees owing 90 days prior to your trip commencement date. An expedition member may then cancel their participation on the following basis:
Trip Cancellation Insurance
We strongly recommend you take out trip cancellation insurance via your travel agent if you wish to be covered against cancellation due to medical or personal reasons.
The Expedition Trip Notes provide detailed information and background for Adventure Consultants' Alpamayo and Quitaraju Expedition.
You can view the trip notes online by clicking the image or download a pdf by clicking the following link:
Team Membership
The team will have a maximum size of 8 members and 4 guides. The operation of the expedition is subject to minimum team numbers being met.
There is a guide to client ratio of 1:2 for this expedition.
Our Guides
The expedition leader will be scheduled approximately six months out from the trip start. All of our trip leaders have extensive experience at altitude and a proven record of safety, success and compatibility.
Head Office Support Team
Running successful journeys and expeditions is more about experience, knowledge and strategic management than any other factors. As an organisation, we place a substantial amount of time and resources into ensuring our trips are well planned and supported. You can be assured that the AC staff will provide you with friendly advice and knowledgeable support throughout the planning stages of your trip and we will be there to provide backup while the trip is running.
Kelly McLaren, Expedition Liaison
Having worked for Adventure Consultants since 2004, Kelly has gained a vast knowledge of AC expeditions and treks. In her role as Expedition Liaison, Kelly will assist with the planning and logistics for your trip, providing useful information, reminders and answering any questions to ensure you arrive well prepared.
Your Health
Expedition members will be provided with pre-trip medical advice and a medical questionnaire and asked to visit their family physician to receive a full medical examination. This information will be sighted only by the expedition leader and our medical adviser and treated with full confidentiality.
Level of Experience Required
To climb Alpamayo and Artesonraju you need to be physically fit, have strong mental stamina and be capable of strenuous exercise for several days duration. Expedition members can expect to be exerting themselves for about six hours per day and be capable of carrying a 20kg/45lb pack.
Climbing at altitude affects people differently; most climbers notice a lower performance rate than normal. Our climbing days are mostly short to accommodate this and vital rest days are usually welcomed! Our graduated acclimatisation program allows you to progressively consolidate your fitness. See our Fitness Training Programs for information on how we can help you prepare for the expedition.
This expedition is advanced in nature. From the altitude to the technical nature of the climbing, prospective members should have experience with multi-pitch climbing (rock or ice), and be comfortable following Grade 4 ice climbs, and have climbed at altitude.
Difficulty Rating
Each of our trips is individually rated according to its physical and technical difficulty, displayed in the icons towards the top of each trip page. You can click on the accompanying question mark for additional descriptions and the full run-down of our grading system is available on our Difficulty Ratings page.
What You Carry
Your packs will be carried by mules to Base Camp. Once at Base Camp team members will be required to carry their own gear and their share of group gear on the mountain, although we have some porter assistance arranged for the group. A typical summit day pack should be no more than 6–10kg/15–20lb.
History
Nevado Alpamayo, as it’s more correctly known, is situated in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. With its twenty-nine summits at over 6,000m, the Cordillera Blanca forms but a small part of the Andes chain, which lies down the whole of the western side of South America. Alpamayo doesn’t quite reach that rounded figure of 6,000m, but makes up for its relative lack of height in aesthetic beauty.
The first attempt on Alpamayo’s summit was in 1948 by a Swiss expedition. Climbing by way of the heavily corniced North ridge, the three climbers came within sight of the virgin summit when a large cornice broke under them, and they were carried down the precipitous North-West face. By some amazing piece of good fortune, the three were neither buried nor injured by the 200m/650ft fall and they were able to make an 'orderly retreat' from the mountain.
In 1957 a German expedition led by Günter Hauser, comprising some of Germany’s strongest climbers succeeded in climbing Alpamayo via its South Ridge. Although no less steep, nor less dangerous than the North ridge, this ridge had the tremendous advantage of leading directly to the higher South summit.
Summit day consists of 500m/1,600ft of perfect two-tooled ice and névé (Styrofoam-like snow) climbing on a flawless fluted face. A climber knows they are close to reaching the top when they begin to see light through the face from the other side.
Food
During the expedition, you will enjoy high-quality Western food as well as popular local dishes. One of the highlights of this expedition is the high-quality meals that are prepared by our local staff. Please indicate any specific dietary requirements you may have on your application form. For special diets such as vegan and gluten/dairy-free, we will call you to discuss your needs and how this will work in the group cooking situation. If your dietary requirements are especially strict you are advised to bring a sufficient supply of your required food types with you to ensure you are provided for.
Clothing & Equipment
Expedition members will be sent a list detailing all necessary individual clothing and personal equipment required.
|
Day |
|
|
1 |
Arrive Lima, transfers to hotel |
|
2 |
Tourist bus first class seat Lima to Huaraz |
|
3 |
Acclimatisation day in Huaraz, rock climbing at Los Olivos crags |
|
4 |
Day hike to Macashca Hills |
|
5 |
Day hike from Pitec to Laguna Churup |
|
6 |
Vallunaraju to Morena Camp |
|
7 |
Vallunaraju climbing instruction, camp at Morena Camp |
|
8 |
Vallunaraju summit climb, return to Huaraz |
|
9 |
Rest day |
|
10 |
Drive Huaraz to Cashapampa, trek to Llama Corral, camp |
|
11 |
Trek to Alpamayo Base Camp |
|
12 |
Climb to Moraine Camp |
|
13 |
Climb to High Camp |
|
14 |
Summit day, return to High Camp |
|
15 |
Climb Quitaraju or Contingency day/Rest day |
|
16 |
Return to Base Camp |
|
17 |
Base Camp to Cashapampa, drive to Huaraz (or move to Artesonraju Base Camp if continuing on the Artesonraju Extension) |
|
18 |
Transfer back to Lima |
|
19 |
Transfer to airport/flights home for those that didn't depart on prior evening |
Artesonraju Extension
|
17 |
Move to Artesonraju Base Camp |
|
18 |
Rest day in Base Camp |
|
19 |
Climb to Moraine Camp |
|
20 |
Climb to High Camp |
|
21 |
Climb Artesonraju, return to Base Camp |
|
22 |
Rest/Contingency day |
|
23 |
Return to Huaraz |
|
24 |
Transfer to Lima |
|
25 |
Departure and flights home |
Alpamayo
After a meeting in Lima we drive north to Huaraz and repack the expedition gear. This town and its higher elevation allow us to further acclimate and prepare for the challenges ahead. We then drive north to the Santa Cruz Valley where we begin our trek into base camp. With the bulk of our gear on pack animals, we gradually acclimatise as we ascend the valley beneath some of the famous peaks of the Cordillera Blanca - the enormous Santa Cruz, Artesonraju, and the very imposing pyramid of Quitaraju.
We establish a base camp in a small valley right beneath Quitaraju (6,036m/19,803ft) and Alpamayo (5,917m/19,412ft), and then spend several days establishing an advanced base camp on the col between the two peaks. Depending on conditions on the mountain, we can choose from a variety of routes, such as the Ferrari Route or the Italian route. On our climb of the Ferrari Route we traverse a gentle glacier to the base of the route, soon reaching 45 degree slopes before crossing a bergschrund, and then ascending the sharply fluted snow and ice face directly to the summit. We enjoy 400m/1,300ft of challenging ground, much of it at a sustained 60 degrees of mixed ice and snow. The final pitches are even steeper and provide an exciting finish to one of the world's finest ice face routes.
Quitaraju
Following our Alpamayo ascent we climb the North Face of Quitaraju, which sits to the Southwest of High Camp. We cross the glacier to the start of the route, which is notably longer than Alpamayo, but not as steep, providing an enjoyable, sustained ice and snow climb through to the summit.
Artesonraju
An ascent of Artesonraju (6,025m/19,767ft) can turn our 19-day Alpamayo programme into a fantastic 25-day expedition to include one of the world's most recognisable summits. Artesonraju, made famous in the Paramount Pictures logo, is a beautiful pyramidal peak situated between the Santa Cruz and Paron Valleys. The climbing is more technical than Alpamayo with some pitches up to 60–80 degrees. Climbers must be totally confident using two technical ice tools and to have climbed, and be confident climbing, long (200m/650ft+) steep technical ice walls.
The cost depends on how many people join the Artesonraju extension and is guided at a 1:2 ratio. Your guide(s) from the Alpamayo programme will accompany you and the cost is inclusive of the Adventure Consultants Western guide from the trip guiding you on Artesonraju.
In previous years we have offered an extension itinerary to climb Huascarán, the highest peak in Peru. However, conditions have been deteriorating making the climb more dangerous and with a lesser chance of success. Hence from 2015 we are now offering Artesonraju as an add-on to Alpamayo.
An ascent of Artesonraju 6,025m/19,767ft can turn our 19-day Alpamayo and Quitaraju programme into a fantastic 25-day expedition to include one of the world's most recognisable summits. Artesonraju, made famous in the Paramount Pictures logo, is a beautiful pyramidal peak situated between the Santa Cruz and Paron Valleys. The climbing is more technical than Alpamayo with some pitches up to 60–80 degrees. Climbers must be totally confident using two technical ice tools and to have climbed, and be confident climbing, long (200m/650ft+) steep technical ice walls.
The cost depends on how many people join the Artesonraju extension and is guided at a 1:2 ratio. Your guide(s) from the Alpamayo programme will accompany you and the cost is inclusive of the Adventure Consultants western guide from the trip guiding you on Artesonraju.
In previous years we have offered an extension itinerary to climb Huascarán, the highest peak in Peru. However, conditions have been deteriorating making the climb more dangerous and with a lesser chance of success. Hence we are now offering Artesonraju as an add-on to Alpamayo.
From the teeming rivers of the Amazon to the spectacular Incan ruins at Machu Picchu, your South American expedition needn't finish at the bottom of the mountain.
Check out our dedicated South America Add Ons page for a whole host of ways to maximize your experience on the continent.
Finding the right travel and rescue insurance for your mountaineering adventure can be tricky! Rest assured when you book with the expedition specialists here at Adventure Consultants we'll help by sending through advice on what you'll need, including:
For further information check out our Travel and Rescue Insurance page or contact us.
The following is to serve as a helpful guideline on our South American expeditions. Please feel free to contact us if you have any further questions. Our team is here to help!
info@adventure.co.nz
NZ: +64 3 443 8711 (Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm PST + 19 hours)
Please note you will be emailed a set of Team Reference Notes upon registration. This extensive booklet includes detailed information to assist in the planning of your trip, from travel and medical advice to equipment lists and photography tips.
How long has Adventure Consultants been in operation?
Adventure Consultants started in 1990 and we have been guiding internationally ever since. You can read more on the history of Adventure Consultants here.
A few outfitters claim to have the same level of experience and prestige as Adventure Consultants. In this league, what makes you the first choice for your climbers?
We are renowned for the quality of service and strategy applied to our expeditions. Our reputation is attributed to the meticulous planning and logistics coordination done by our head office. Once on the ground in South America, you can expect to be well looked after by our guides to that you can relax and enjoy trekking through this amazing region.
What showers and washing (clothes) will be available on the expedition?
Showers will be available in the city hotels that are utilised prior to and after your climb. After your departure from town, please do not expect a shower each day but these will be offered where possible. We advise people to bring wet-wipes for impromptu washes in between available showers.
What food will be available?
You’ll get breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks, as well as ample hot and cold drinks but if you have any special treats you like, we encourage you to bring some along. When staying in the cities, expect a wide variety of options. Once on the climbing programme, our well-trained cooks prepare high-quality Western food as well as popular local dishes. Please indicate any specific dietary requirements you may have on your application form as we are happy to accommodate those with specific diets.
What are the hotels/lodges like?
We use centrally located mid-range hotels for city nights and for lodge-based expeditions, we book tidy, clean, modern lodges through our local agents. Our standard trip inclusions are based on shared rooms, usually twin share. Once on your climbing programme, you will be staying in tents which will be part of a larger camp.
Do I need to arrive the day before the trip starts? And when should I book my flight to leave?
No, our trip programmes all have an arrival day and a departure day built into them. You are welcome, and encouraged, to arrive a bit earlier to explore your arrival city if you have the time.
My travel agent says I can just get an e-ticket (electronic ticket) and will not need to be actually issued a physical ticket.
E-tickets are the standard practice these days and are now acceptable in most locations. Do ensure you print your itinerary and have your booking number with you, as this allows you to change your return flight plans if need be.
When should I book my ticket?
Generally, we ask you to wait until 90 days prior to your trip start date to ensure your trip has met the minimum numbers and will operate. If you see a good deal and want to book your flights early then please ensure you can make changes to your tickets and we highly recommend purchasing trip cancellation insurance. If the circumstance arises that we have to cancel the trip for any reason, we are usually able to help you book on to an alternate departure, either with us or another operator.
Can I get a cheap ticket online?
The problem with these tickets is that you usually end up having to pay quite a lot more if you have to make any changes to your ticket. Some of the places we go to aren't straightforward and we highly recommend using a travel agent for such travel, as there are many intricacies that they can help you with. In the long run, they save you money!
Will I be picked up from the airport?
Where possible, an Adventure Consultants representative will be there to meet you off your flight on the scheduled arrival date. If you are arriving before the scheduled trip start date, we can often make arrangements for a pick-up, although taking a taxi is generally the easiest form of transport before your trip starts.
What if I am arriving early or departing late?
Adventure Consultants can make reservations for you and can often make recommendations for attractions that you can enjoy while waiting for your trip to begin. Please let our office know your specific plans as we love to pass on sightseeing tips.
Do I need to get a visa to travel to Peru, Chile or Argentina?
Most visitors who stay for less than three months do not require a visitor’s visa, but you must check this with your local embassy or travel agent for updates.
Do you have a recommended list of clothing we should bring?
Yes, you will get be sent a personal clothing and equipment list once our office has received your trip registration and deposit.
Do I really need all the equipment on the equipment list?
Yes, these lists have been carefully prepared so that you have clothing/equipment for all eventualities. Please bring everything on the list!
How warm do we need our sleeping bags to be?
This will be clearly stated in your recommended gear list. We suggest buying a sleeping bag big enough to allow you to wear extra clothes in if it is especially cold. Sleeping in a warm hat can greatly improve a bag's warmth.
What altitude medication will be available on the expedition? Do we need to take tablets before or during the climb?
All our guides carry extensive medical kits. You need to bring any medications you regularly use (don’t forget to tell us about them), plus extras. Also bring a small first aid kit including a blister kit and mild headache medication for the normal altitude headaches.
How much weight do we carry on the climb?
When on the trekking portion of your itinerary, you will carry your daypack with warm clothes, water, snacks, sun block, camera and whatever else you need for the day. Generally, it will be light, 5-10kg/10-20lb. On Alpamayo, your pack will be much heavier, so do make sure that you are 'pack fit' prior to arriving onto the expedition.
Who goes on your trips?
Our climbers come from a wide variety of backgrounds, interests, countries and skill levels. From those seeking skill development to those seeking assistance with the world's highest mountains or purely adventure, we provide courses, expeditions, treks and guided ascents for all levels of outdoor enthusiasts.
I would like to arrange a private trip, is this possible?
We are happy to arrange a private group trip to the destination of your choice and we have run many successful private trips and expeditions including summits of 8,000m peaks such as Manaslu and Kanchenjunga, all Seven Summits and remote destinations such as Antarctica. There is no specific group size, but obviously larger groups are more cost-effective. Please contact the office for more information or visit our Private Customised Expeditions page.
What kind of physical condition should I be in for a climb?
We cannot recommend enough being fit prior to the expedition as this will make all the difference to your acclimatisation, and ultimately, your enjoyment. For our South American expeditions, you should be comfortable walking for 6-8 hours with an appropriately weighted pack. Walking a few hours each day, then 6-8 hours on the weekends is generally a good realistic training programme.
How do I know this is the right trip for me?
We offer trips to suit all levels of ability and ambition, from your first mountain experience to extreme ascents and everything in between. To help you navigate the choices available, our trips are graded by both the level of physical exertion and the level of skill required, allowing you to find your perfect expedition match. These ratings are displayed in the icons at the top of each expedition page, with a further explanation available by clicking on the accompanying question mark. A full run-down of the categories can be found on our Difficulty Ratings page and our team is more than happy to discuss your experience to find the right trip for you.
Will there be any access to a satellite phone? If yes then what would be the charges for usage?
Yes, most of our expedition guides take satellite phones and you are welcome to use these, generally at US$3 per minute depending on the region. Most often, your guide will post daily dispatches on the AC website in which your friends and family can follow your progress.
I want to contact my friend or relative, who is on one of your trips, how can I reach them?
Many of our climbs send daily internet dispatches, and we receive updates from our guides while they are in the field. The best place to reach a loved one is through our office.
Will there be any power source for charging batteries, etc. available throughout the climb? What are the voltage requirements?
We take solar panels and sometimes battery power packs on our expeditions. Our first priority is to charge our computers, satellite phones and expedition electrical equipment. There is usually enough power to then charge your personal electrical equipment. If your equipment has a cigarette lighter car charger, bring that and you can plug it in to charge. We do NOT recommend bringing rechargeable digital cameras as they tend to run out when power is not available. Use cameras with replaceable batteries and we recommend lithium batteries. We can cater for special power requirements at an extra cost - please enquire with our office.
What insurance do I need to get?
On all of our international expeditions we require you to have travel insurance covering medical evacuation and repatriation. This should cover you in the event that any mishap occurs and an expensive evacuation is initiated. We also highly recommend that you purchase a comprehensive policy to cover trip cancellation, delayed flights, lost luggage, etc..
Do I need evacuation insurance?
Yes, it is very important. Many of our expeditions are in remote places with no roads and developing medical services. In the unlikely event you get sick, you want to get to good medical care ASAP.
Who do you recommend for insurance?
Coverage varies based on your nationality and the trip that you are taking with us. When you have booked on for a trip with us we will send you comprehensive information on various insurance options which will serve as a good starting point for obtaining the best coverage available.
What is trip cancellation insurance?
Trip cancellation insurance is an option that may allow you to cancel your trip without losing the total cost of the trip. Adventure Consultants highly recommends cancellation insurance for all of our trips. If circumstances cause us to cancel a trip (minimum numbers are not reached or travel to a country becomes too dangerous) then we refund your fees paid but trip cancellation insurance covers your airfare and any other costs you may have incurred.
Can I pay by credit card?
We can accept both the trip deposit and balance payment on credit card. Please note that there is a 3% fee for all card transactions. Please contact our office or visit our online payment system.
What is included in the cost of my trip? Does it include airfare?
Please see the 'Payment Conditions' section above for the inclusions and exclusions for this particular trip. There is also a downloadable pdf document in the 'Trip Notes' section above. International airfares are not included in the trip price. We can however recommend excellent travel agents with whom we have worked should you require help with arranging your international flights.
Why are you sometimes more expensive than other operators?
Many of our trips are very similar in price to our competitors. Some companies even wait for us to set our prices and use ours as a guideline!! Some of our main selling points, which sometimes do cost more, are internationally qualified Western guides, proven dependable local operators, small group sizes and safe client-to-guide ratios, quality equipment and high summit success rates, among other things. You do get what you pay for which is why we stand out from the rest. Many clients come to us after failing on one of our competitors ‘cheaper’ trips.
How do I sign up for a trip?
The best way to reserve your space on the trip is to contact our office or complete our online booking form (click 'Book Now' below). Your deposit can be submitted by bank transfer (please see 'Payment Details' in the 'Payment Conditions' section above) or via our secure online payment system.
info@adventure.co.nz
NZ: +64 3 443 8711 (Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm PST + 19 hours)
What is the best equipment for photography in Alpine environments?
There is an extensive section in our reference notes, which are sent out on receipt of your trip registration form and deposit, explaining about photography in the mountains.
Remember photos are wonderful records of your expedition but keep camera gear simple and light to best enjoy the trip you are on. Disposable and digital cameras are the lightest weight, but all cameras have maintenance issues that need to be carefully considered before bringing them to high elevations.
I want to become a mountain guide, where do I start?
Those with limited experience generally start by taking an alpine climbing course and then go out and climb for a few years. You generally should have at least 5 years of climbing and/or teaching/guiding experience. You need avalanche and medical training and then you can apply to do an NZ Mountain Guides Course or the equivalent in your country, aligned with the IFMGA.
Please see Adventure Consultants Mountain Guide Scholarships on our Career Opportunities page and check the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association for more information.
Dispatches - Alpamayo 2014
Dispatches - Alpamayo 2012
