Standing on the summit of an 8,000m peak is one of mountaineering's defining achievements. Of the fourteen mountains that break that magic threshold, two stand out as the ideal introduction to true high altitude climbing: Cho Oyu and Manaslu.
Both are climbed each autumn by Adventure Consultants teams, both serve as proven stepping stones to Everest and both deliver an unforgettable expedition in their own right. So which one is right for you?
At 8,201m/26,906ft, Cho Oyu is the world's sixth highest mountain and widely considered the most achievable of the fourteen 8,000m peaks. The climbing route links features free of undue hazard, with only a few short technical sections, and the ascent line is direct, so you gain altitude without covering huge distances.
The journey there is a highlight in itself. Our itinerary takes in the cultural riches of Tibet, including time in Lhasa, as we travel across the Tibetan Plateau towards the mountain. The gradual overland approach is ideal for acclimatisation, allowing your body to adjust progressively before the short walk in to Base Camp at 5,650m/18,500ft.
Many of our expedition members use Cho Oyu as preparation for Everest. Others climb it as their once only 8,000m goal. Either way, it is the classic first 8000er for good reason.
Manaslu, the world's eighth highest mountain at 8,163m/26,781ft, offers a wilder, more remote experience in an exceedingly scenic corner of Nepal. It has become one of the preferred options for climbers stepping up to 8,000m, and our expedition is built for efficiency and comfort from the outset.
We helicopter from Kathmandu into Samagaon, a village at the foot of the mountain, where we enjoy day hikes to acclimatise before moving up to Base Camp. The climb ascends the North East Face via four camps, following moderately angled snow slopes with a short steep section above Camp One and a series of short ice bulges on fixed ropes towards Camp Four.
Summit day is a pearler. A sequence of moderate snow slopes and plateaus leads to a steep snow arête and an airy summit with rather grand views across the Himalaya.
How to Choose
Both peaks demand exceptional fitness, solid skills on snow, ice and rock, and ideally prior ascents of 6,000-7,000m peaks such as Denali, Aconcagua or Peak Lenin. Beyond that, the choice comes down to the experience you want.
Choose Cho Oyu if the cultural journey through Lhasa and Tibet appeals, and you want the peak with the most straightforward climbing of any 8,000er. Choose Manaslu if you prefer to stay in Nepal, value the speed and convenience of helicopter access, and are drawn to a quieter, more remote mountain with a genuinely spectacular summit day. Manaslu also comes in at a lower price point, making it an attractive entry into 8,000m climbing.
Climb with the Specialists
Whichever mountain you choose, you will climb with the benefit of Adventure Consultants' decades of high altitude expedition experience. Both expeditions include International guides at a 1:5 ratio, strong Sherpa support, five bottles of oxygen per climber, comfortable Base Camp facilities, reliable communications and the meticulous planning and logistics that give our climbers the best possible chance of success. On both mountains every climber also receives 1:1 Sherpa support on summit day.
And after your first 8,000er? Everest awaits. You'll be ready.
Explore the full itineraries and book your place on Cho Oyu or Manaslu, or contact our team to talk through which peak suits your experience and ambitions.
